FSG 1963 wool coat, www.moderngillie.com

Cutting and fusing. FSG 1963 Wool Coat

Fusing the interfacing to the wool coat fabric

FSG 1963 wool coat, www.moderngillie.comI have to admit that fusing interfacing is not my favorite job. Fusing the whole front is very tedious. I used a fusiknit interfacing for the front pieces and the hems of the sleeves and the back pieces. I also fused  the shoulder seam on the back panels. For the collar and the front facing’s and the pocket welts I used an iron on hair canvas to give the fabric some crispness in those areas. The iron has to be placed on top of the press cloth which is on top of the fusible interfacing, on top of the fabric and then held for a slow count of 10 then you pick up the iron, no sliding, and put it down a few inches away and do it again. I use the cotton setting on my iron.

 Bust darts for the wool coat.

For two fronts, the facing, the collar, the welts and hems, this is a long day.

Here are the fused fronts.
FSG 1963 wool coat, www.moderngillie.com
The bust dart went extremely well and, as always, the wool pressed beautifully into shape.

Oliso Smart Iron

Welt pocket markings

Here you can see the markings for the welt pockets. This must be done very carefully so they end up perfectly symmetrical.
FSG 1963 wool coat, www.moderngillie.com
Here I am checking to make sure that both fronts markings or the same.
FSG 1963 wool coat, www.moderngillie.comI originally made the pocket markings on the fusible interfacing and you can see from the blue marks how far they are off when you do the final marking on the garment front.
I am not 100% convinced that I made the right choices regarding the pattern. I cut the back is if it were on the fold even though the back is in two pieces. The front I cut so that the design angles oppose each other. Perhaps I should’ve done the same with the back but it’s too late now!

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