FSG 1963 wool coat, www.moderngillie.com

Fashion Sewing Group 1963 Wool Coat Construction- shoulder and side seams and collar

Sewing struggles with my gorgeous wool coat

I was feeling depressed about this coat. I tried to make the welt pocket match the stripe pattern. That meant cutting them off grain. Even with iron on interfacing I could not get them to be flat and ripple free. I did them on grain and they were perfect, just not matching.
I took a day off and launched a new outfit for Sasha dolls in my Etsy store.

Matching stripes – an accomplishment to be proud of

Today I tackled the center back seam, shoulder seams and side seams. All the stripes matched!  To iron the seams I dampen them with water then flatten them with the iron until they are dry. The pattern designer recommends a ‘dauber’ made of rolled up wool. I use a spray bottle and spread the water with my fingers.  This sets the wool into the right shape and flatness.

Time for Collars

The next step was the collars. In this pattern, the lower collar is slightly smaller than the upper collar. This allows the upper collar to roll slightly to the backside of the finished collar.
The lower collar is attached to the coat. The upper collar to the front and back neck facing. This takes s bit of careful sewing to line up the stitches but creates a lovely collar.  Once you have pressed everything properly you sew the two collars together by hand. This allows the two pieces to sit together yet be flexible
FSG 1963 wool coat, www.moderngillie.com

Oliso Smart Iron

 Here is the underside of the lower collar
FSG 1963 wool coat, www.moderngillie.com
This shows how the facing seam has been slightly rolled to the underside.
FSg 1963 wool coat, www.moderngillie.com
Here I am making sure I am happy with the fit. It all falls nicely. The armscyes look to be in the right place.
FSG 1963 wool coat, www.moderngillie.com
Next the  sleeves.

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